Wild and wonderful: Anne Bennett delights in the rugged landscape and grand cities of southern Spain

02/25/2001
The Sunday Telegraph

All over Andalusia, olive mills, stables and farmhouses are being spruced up and turned into holiday homes. Rural tourism is reversing the fortunes of abandoned inland areas, meeting the increasing demand for rustic properties. In towns and cities, dilapidated mansions and convents are being reborn as boutique hotels. Local chefs are reviving forgotten Moorish recipes, giving them a modern twist before putting them back on the menu.

In the past few years, small operators have been searching out villas and cottages in obscure villages hidden away in the hills, opening up new areas to British visitors. The success of Chris Stewart's book, Driving Over Lemons, has put the beautiful Alpujarras firmly on our holiday map, an area unknown even to most Spaniards until recently.

Several operators are featuring the Axarquia near Malaga and the Valle de Lecrin near Granada, which are both great bases for combining days on the beach with country walks and cultural visits - and shopping.
Olive oil aficionados can base their entire holidays around visits to mills in the countryside around Jaen, Cordoba and

Malaga. The superb beaches of the Costa de la Luz are easily accessible with a direct flight to Jerez, which also makes a weekend break to Cadiz or Jerez itself an attractive option. At the current exchange rate, pounds 5 will buy you half a bottle of chilled fino sherry, some olives and a dish of marinated anchovies in a traditional bodega. What are you waiting for?

Annie Bennett is the author of the Blue Guides to Madrid and Barcelona.

The telephone code for Spain is 0034.

The Cities

Seville

The old Expo site is buzzing again, with the Olympic Stadium, Isla Magica theme park and a cluster of hotels, restaurants and clubs. This in no way detracts from Seville's many traditional charms, which are all the more seductive now that the city has cleaned up its act and is much safer than it used to be - all part of the push to host the Olympics in 2012.

Hotels Baco (954 565050, Plaza Ponce de Leon 15). Traditional mansion with ceramic decoration in square off the main tourist beat (doubles from pounds 55). Or Dona Maria (954 224990, Calle Don Remondo 19), an old favourite by the cathedral, furnished with antiques, wonderful rooftop pool and bar (doubles from pounds 70).

Eating La Gazania (954 934437, Calle San Francisco Javier 16). Fashionable new restaurant in the Nervion area mixing Mediterranean and Mexican influences ( pounds 15- pounds 20). Or go on a tapas crawl, including Ultramarinos Casa Moreno (954 422 8315, Calle Gamazo 7), where you walk through the quaint grocer's to the bar at the back, decorated with bullfighting paraphernalia.

Cordoba

The former capital of the Al-Andalus empire is also thriving. The restoration last year of the Sagrario chapel inside the mosque revealed astounding frescoes, making a visit even more rewarding. Avoid the crowds by going during services before 10am - when it is also free to get in. Go during the Festival de Patios (May 4-16), when you can tour the flower-filled courtyards, and maybe catch the outdoor Montilla-Moriles wine-tasting fair too (May 3-7).

Hotels Hotel Lola (957 200305, Calle Romero 3). Recently opened in the heart of the Jewish quarter, with views of the mosque. Eight rooms, all with women's names (doubles from pounds 70). Or Albucasis (957 478625, Calle Buen Pastor 11), well situated for sights and shops, with underground garage. Pretty building but rooms are a bit plain (doubles pounds 40).

Eating Casa el Pisto (957 470166, Plaza San Miguel 1). Tavern founded in 1880 with superb Cordoban tapas and wine. Great atmosphere, popular with bullfighting aficionados (about pounds 8). Or Taberna Puerta Sevilla (957 297380, Calle Postrera 51). Although it only opened as a restaurant last year, the building dates back to the 14th century when it was home to the royal archers (set lunch pounds 10, a la carte

pounds 15- pounds 18).

Granada

The profusion of Moorish, Renaissance and Baroque monuments does not prevent Granada from being a busy modern city too. Thousands of university students create a buzzing nightlife in the evocative lanes of the Albayzin, the original Moorish quarter, and the pretty Realejo area below the Alhambra. The new Bono Turistico card costs pounds 10 and covers entrance to the Alhambra Cathedral, the new Science Park and other significant monuments and museums.

Hotels Carmen de Santa Ines (958 226380, Placeta Porras 7) is a renovated 16th-century mansion in the Albayzin, opposite the Alhambra, furnished with antiques (doubles from pounds 70). Or Los Tilos (958 266712, Plaza de Bib-Rambla 4),

not luxurious but sufficiently comfortable and perfectly situated on a pedestrianised central square (doubles pounds 40).

Eating Casa Juanillo (958 220591, Camino del Sacromonte 99), unpretentious place in the gypsy quarter, with views of the Alhambra. Order a selection of Granada specialities to share ( pounds 10). Or La Ermita (958 290257, Plaza de Toros, Calle Doctor Oloriz 25) in the bullring, with brasserie downstairs ( pounds 10) and more formal dining room upstairs ( pounds 25).

Malaga

Visit Malaga last on a tour of the cities of Andalusia. Kick back and eat sardines on the beach, drink Malaga wine from the barrel in sawdust-strewn taverns - just like Picasso used to - and meander around the lanes of the old town buying things you really don't need, but just can't resist. Walk up to the Alcazaba Arab fortress and don't miss La Concepcion botanic garden.

Hotels The Parador del Gibralfaro (952 221902, Castillo de Gibralfaro), on a hilltop overlooking the bay (doubles pounds 75). Or the

Carlos V (952 215120, Calle Cister 10), nothing fancy but right in the middle of town (doubles pounds 40).

Eating La Consula (952 222063, Calle San Agustin, Churriana), the swish restaurant of a prestigious cookery school, with imaginative Andalusian dishes, in a grand mansion haunted by Hemingway (about pounds 30). Or Bar Orellana (Calle Moreno Monroy 5, 952 223012) for terrific tapas ( pounds 5- pounds 10).

Cadiz

Jutting out into the Atlantic, Cadiz was founded more than 3,000 years ago. Don't spend all your time retracing history, however. Look in at the spectacular Plaza de Abastos fish market, and watch the sun go down over the ocean with some shellfish and a cold beer or two. Carnival (from now until March 4) rates among the wildest fiestas in Spain.

Hotels Puerta Tierra (956 272111, Avenida Andalucia 34). Four-star between the old and the new town, 50 yards from Santa Maria beach. Most rooms have sea views (doubles from pounds 70). Or Centro Sol (956 283103, Calle Manzanares 7), a 19th-

century townhouse in the old town between the cathedral and the quayside (doubles pounds 28).

Eating Dona Pepa (no phone, Calle General Munoz Arenillas 1). No sign outside, but inside the most incredible range of seafood is displayed in baskets on the counter. No price list either, so watch how much you order (usually by weight) as this quality doesn't come cheap ( pounds 20- pounds 40). Or Achuri (956 253613, Calle Plocia 15), where large helpings of great grub are served in a distinctly non-designer setting in the old town ( pounds 12- pounds 16).

Jerez de la Frontera

Between Seville and Cadiz,

Jerez is rich in monuments as well as sherry bodegas, so you can alternate slurps of fino and oloroso with cultural visits. This is one of the best places for flamenco in Andalusia. See it (and join in) at the horse fair (May 13- 20), which is an absolute riot and surprisingly untouristy.

Hotels Avila (956 334808, Avila 3). An unexciting but handy location and reasonably priced (doubles

from pounds 27). Also central is the Nuevo (956 Calle Caballeros 23) in a 19th-century mansion (doubles from pounds 20).

Eating Tendido-6 (956 344835, Calle Circo 10). Fantastic tapas bar and

restaurant opposite the bullring ( pounds 8- pounds 15). Or La Carbona (956 347475, San Francisco de Paula 2). Typical Jerez bodega serving chargrilled meats ( pounds 10).

Historic towns

Arcos de la Frontera

Dramatically situated on a limestone cliff above the Guadalete river, between Jerez and Ronda, a well-

preserved and picturesque old town crammed with monuments and mansions.

Hotels La Casa Grande (956 703930, Calle Maldonado 10). Gorgeous 18th-century mansion set around a courtyard. Opened last year, it has only two rooms and two suites, with lots of quirky touches (doubles from pounds 40).

Eating El Convento (956 703233, Calle Marques de Torresoto 7). Forgotten local recipes have been revived in this delightful 17th-century mansion with tables in and around a courtyard (set lunch pounds 15, a la carte pounds 20).

Carmona

With a rich history and spectacular location on a hill surrounded by fertile plains, Carmona is a gem. Twenty miles east of Seville, it has been inhabited since Palaeolithic times and has vestiges of the Roman, Arab and Christian cultures that have occupied its strategic site over the centuries.

Hotels Cortijo el Triguero (955 953626, Carretera El Viso del Alcor). Country house two and a half miles outside town, surrounded by orange trees and with a pool. Stables and bull ranch nearby ( pounds 20 per person).

Eating La Almazara (954 190076, Calle Santa Ana 33). Traditional dishes featuring game and local produce in a former olive mill (set lunch pounds 10, a la carte pounds 20).

Baeza and Ubeda

Only five miles apart, with olive groves all around, these two small towns in the province of Jaen share a surprising architectural heritage with Arab, Gothic, Romanesque, Renaissance, Plateresque and Baroque monuments.

Hotels Palacio de la Rambla (953 750196, Plaza del Marques 1, Ubeda). A 16th-century palace with eight rooms set around a Renaissance courtyard, decorated with ceramics and tapestries (doubles pounds 70).

Eating Casa Juanito (953 740040, Paseo Arca del Agua). Just outside Baeza, this family-run restaurant is renowned for its imaginative use of olive oil in vegetable, game and fish dishes ( pounds 25).

Priego de Cordoba

Right in the centre of Andalusia, Priego is the market town of the beautiful Sierra Subbetica, now a significant olive-growing area. Its heyday as a centre of silk production is reflected in the many extravagant Baroque churches and monuments, while its importance as a Moorish town can be seen in the well-preserved medina.

Hotels Villa Turistica de Priego (957 703503, Aldea de Zagrilla). Stylish holiday village with large pool in countryside outside town (from pounds 15 per person).

Eating Rafi (957 540749, Calle Isabel la Catolica 4). Unpretentious diner that is strong on Cordoban specialities ( pounds 7- pounds 10).

Ronda

This ancient town spanning a breathtaking gorge has always been a magnet for writers and poets - Hemingway and Rilke among them - but not all the myths and legends they retold are true, and there aren't too many bandits about these days. Ronda is full of impossibly pretty

corners and grandiose mansions, and the stone

bullring is one of the oldest in Spain.

Hotels La Posada Real (952 877176, Calle Real 42). A 15th-century former convent, inn and town hall. Ten individually-designed rooms (doubles from pounds 65).

Eating Tragabuches (952 190291, Calle Jose Aparicio 1). One of the best restaurants in Andalusia. Smart setting, sophisticated cuisine ( pounds 25).

Antequera

About 37 miles north of Malaga, Antequera was established in the Bronze Age, vestiges of which remain in caves and dolmens. It was later an important Roman, Arab and Christian hilltop fortress. It commands views across the surrounding plains and contains numerous Renaissance and Baroque churches and mansions. To the south is El Torcal, an area of sculptural limestone formations and unusual plant species.

Hotels La Posada del Torcal (952 031177, Villanueva de la Concepcion). Small, luxurious rooms and lovely pool in soothing country setting overlooking El Torcal (doubles pounds 75).

Eating El Angelote (952 703465, Plaza Coso Viejo). Try Antequeran cuisine in this restored mansion with tables in a pretty little square (set lunch pounds 5, a la carte pounds 12- pounds 15).

Villages

Almonaster la Real

Arguably the prettiest village in the Sierra de Aracena, north-west of Seville. Within the fortress at the top of the village is a well-preserved 10th-century mosque with vestiges of a Visigothic church. Come here and to neighbouring villages to eat the superb pata negra ham.

Hotels and eating Casa Garcia (959 943109, Avenida de San Martin, Almonaster, Huelva). Excellent local dishes. Rooms above restaurant (doubles pounds 35, dinner pounds 15- pounds 20).

Benalauria

Lost in the Serrania de Ronda, the inhabitants of Benalauria have put their village on the map by reviving their crafts and traditions. An old olive mill has been restored and turned into a museum, and craftspeople make and sell their wares from the cork and chestnut trees around the village. On the first

Sunday in August, there is a

humdinger of a party when

the villagers recreate the

battles of yore between Moors and Christians.

Hotels and eating Meson La Molienda (952 152548, Calle Moralera 59, Benalauria). Rustic house with stone walls and beamed ceilings. Local specialities such as venison in cinnamon sauce. Two pretty rooms above restaurant (doubles pounds 32, dinner pounds 16).

Capileira

The highest of three villages on the side of the Poqueira gorge in the Alpujarras mountains, between Granada and the Mediterranean. The whitewashed houses, originally built by Berbers, have flat, clay roofs and mushroom-shaped chimneys, unlike anywhere else in Andalusia. From here, you can ascend the Mulhacen, the highest peak in mainland Spain.

Hotels and eating Cortijo Catifalarga (958 343357, 18413 Capileira). Restored traditional stone house on the mountainside above the village. Fabulous views down to the sea, and even Africa on a clear day. Alpujarran specialities. Three rooms and an apartment ( pounds 10- pounds 20 per person, dinner pounds 10).

Montefrio

Set high on a hill around two crags amid the inevitable olive groves, between Cordoba and Granada, Montefrio enjoys the unusual distinction of being renowned for both its churches and its charcuterie. It is a popular base for walkers, and there is also an important neolithic site nearby, Las Penas de los Gitanos.

Hotels and eating La Enrea (958 336662, Paraje de La Enrea, Montefrio). Converted olive mill serving local cuisine. Large, light rooms with superb views (doubles pounds 30- pounds 50, dinner pounds 12- pounds 18).

Vejer de la Frontera

The fantastic beaches of the Costa de la Luz between Cadiz and Tarifa are visible from Vejer, which retains a distinctly Moorish character. Whitewashed arches link narrow streets and tiny squares, and substantial chunks of the old walls

still surround the village,

which is permeated by the

smell of pine from nearby

forests.

Hotels and eating Hospederia Convento de San Francisco (956 451001, La Plazuela, 11150 Vejer de la Frontera, Cadiz). 17th-

century converted convent in the middle of the village (doubles pounds 40, dinner pounds 15).

Zuheros

In the heart of the Sierra Subbetica nature park, Zuheros fulfils every fantasy of an Andalusian village - and the local goats' cheese and olive oil are fabulous too. A great base for exploring on foot or by car.

Hotels and eating Zuhayra (957 694693, Callle Mirador 10, Zuheros, 14870 Cordoba). Family-run with views across olive groves (doubles pounds 35, dinner pounds 10).

Beaches

Cabo de Gata

The Cabo de Gata nature reserve in eastern Andalusia contains the most remote beaches along the entire coast. Flanked by volcanic rock formations, some don't even have names, let alone roads. Many are nudist beaches, such as Barranal, San Pedro and Media Luna. A thousand years ago, the locally produced silk was sent to the medina at Fez from Los Genoveses.

Costa Tropical

Providing you can cope with greyish sand, the beaches of the Costa Tropical are a delight. Running from Nerja to the province of Almeria, the coastline is protected by the Sierra Nevada mountains, creating a suntrap warm enough to grow mangoes, avocados and bananas. Just east of Nerja, the Cala del Pino is a strip of sand hidden below the Maro cliffs. The steep walk down deters all but the most determined, although nudists prefer the adjacent Cerro Gordo. Farther along the coast, the rich marine life at Cala Rijana makes it a divers' paradise.

Costa de la Luz

The Atlantic coastline between Portugal and Gibraltar is lined with broad, white beaches. Windsurfers love the bays around Tarifa, particularly Valdevaqueros and Los Lances. Bolonia, the next beach along, is better for diving. El Palmar, near the village of Vejer, is sheltered and good for bodyboarding. Spanish families spend the summer at the low-key resorts of Conil, Chiclana and Chipiona. Towards Portugal, La Antilla and Isla Canela are two of the best.

Landscapes

Donana

The largest and most important national park in Spain, Donana borders the Atlantic at the mouth of the Guadalquivir in the south-west corner of Andalusia. The marshes, dunes and pine forests are home to the Iberian lynx, as well as 250 bird species, including imperial eagles, vultures and flamingos. Visits are by organised tour only.

Las Alpujarras

Stretching across the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada, between Granada and the Mediterranean, Las Alpujarras is a region of extraordinary beauty and variety. The hillsides are scored by deep ravines, leading down to lush valleys. Previously the preserve of Bohemian recluses, the area is rapidly becoming the Spanish Tuscany.

La Axarquia

East of Malaga, in the hills behind the coast, La Axarquia is remarkably untouristy, considering its proximity to the Costa del Sol. Grapes are spread out to dry on the lower slopes, then used to make sweet Malaga wine. Farther up, the hillside is covered with olive trees. Every village has its olive mill, making superb, fragrant oils.

Sierra Subbetica

In the middle of Andalusia, the Sierra Subbetica is a stunning limestone landscape of olive groves and ruined castles. Best in spring, when wild flowers cover the fields, you can expect to see peregrine falcons, eagles, kestrels and vultures. Although the dozen or so villages are some of the prettiest in Andalusia, this is not an overly touristy area.

Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche

Black pigs roam among the oak and chestnut trees on the gentle hills of the north-west corner of Andalusia. The quiet villages, crowned with castles built by the Knights Templar, are linked by old mule tracks flanked by apricot and plum trees - excellent walking routes. The Sierra Pelada, near the Portuguese border, is much wilder, with a substantial colony of black vultures.

Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas

The Guadalquivir river, which flows through Seville to the Atlantic, has its source in this mountainous natue reserve in the north-east of the region. More than 1,200 plant species grow here, including the unique Cazorla violet. Moorish villages are set on rocky crags, between black pine forests and olive groves. Cazorla, La Iruela and Segura de la Sierra are popular bases for activity holidays. The deer mating ritual in autumn attracts thousands of visitors.

essentials

Getting there

By air There are airports at Malaga, Seville, Granada, Almeria, Jerez and Gibraltar. Malaga has the greatest choice, with scheduled flights operated by Iberia (020 7830 0011; www.iberia.com); British Airways (0845 77 333 77; www.britishairways.

com); easyJet (0870 600 0000; www.easyJet.com); Go (08456 054321; www.go-fly.com); and Monarch (08700 405040; www.fly-crown.com). For charters, try Spanish Travel Services (020 7837 5337; www.apatraveluk.com), Sky Value (08704 444212) or Air Tickets Direct (0870 8761199; www.airtickets.

co.uk). Iberia and British Airways also fly direct to Seville, BA flies to Gibraltar and at the end of March buzz (0870 240 7070; www.buzzaway.

com) reintroduces its service to Jerez.

By rail Rail Europe (08705 848848; www.raileurope.

co.uk) arranges travel with changes in Paris and Madrid. Journey time 22-26 hours.

By car You need at least two days to drive from the UK. You can reduce the driving, though not the time, by taking the ferry to northern Spain. Brittany Ferries (0870 9012400;www.brittany-ferries.co.uk) sails from Plymouth to Santander, and P & O European Ferries (0870 2424999; www.

poferries.com) from Portsmouth to Bilbao.

When to go

The countryside is at its best in spring, but it can be rainy, particularly in April. Accommodation is expensive and scarce during Easter and spring festivals, so check dates. June and September are good choices for combining touring with the beach. Inland cities are uncomfortably hot in July and August. The coast is pleasant even in winter, though not warm enough to swim, but expect low temperatures with snow in mountain areas.

Getting around

Malaga is the cheapest place to hire a car, whether from the UK or arranged locally. Holiday Autos (0870 400 4477; www.holidayautos.com) and Transhire (0870 789 8000; www.transhire.com) offer competitive rates. Travelling around by public transport is a feasible option as both trains and buses are efficient, cheap and easy to use - though often infrequent in rural areas.

Villas and hotels

Individual Travellers (0870 773773, www.indiv-travellers.com). Wide range of properties, many with pools, including converted olive mills and stables.

Spain at Heart (01373 814222; www.spainatheart.

co.uk). Andalusian experts with accommodation in lesser-known areas inland and by the beach, as well as small hotels and apartments in cities.

Kirker (020 7231 3333). Hotels in Seville, Granada, Cordoba, Carmona and El Puerto de Santa Maria, plus paradors and rural hotels.

Magic of Spain (08700 270400; www.

magictravelgroup.co.uk). Villas and small hotels on the Costa del Sol and Costa de la Luz, plus cities and inland.

Mundi Color (020 7828 6021). Wide range of city breaks, rural holidays and resorts.

Real Ronda (01275 859699; www.real-ronda.com). Villas, cottages and hotels in and around Ronda.

Rustic Blue (0034 958 763381; www.rusticblue.

com). Specialists in the Alpujarras, with accommodation throughout eastern Andalusia.

Simply Spain (020 8541 2222; www.simply-travel.com) Family-run hotels, villas with pools and farmhouses in unusual parts of the coast and inland, including Almeria province.

Spanish Chapters (020 7722 0722; www.villa-rentals.com). Upmarket properties in Seville and the countryside, particularly good for groups.

The Real Spain (020 8686 3638). Villas and country-house hotels throughout Andalusia.

Travellers' Way (01527 573724; www.

travellersway.co.uk). Emphasis on off-the-beaten-track villages on the coast and inland.

Turismo Al Sur (0034 96 417 9217; www.turismoalsur.

com). Small hotels and cottages in historic towns and rural locations.

Vintage Travel (01954 261431; www.vintagetravel.

co.uk). Selection of villas in Ronda, Arcos de la Frontera and Conil de la Frontera.

Specialist operators

Cookery Pata Negra (020 7736 1959; www.

patanegra.net). Learn to cook Spanish and North African dishes, based in country-house hotels in the Sierra de Aracena or south of Seville, with visits to local markets and bodegas.

Culture

ACE Study Tours (01223 835055; www.

study-tours.org). For people who want more than just the highlights and like to get behind closed doors.

NADFAS (020 7873 5027; www.coxandkings.co.uk). A seven-day tour of Seville, Cordoba and Granada.

Dance

Dance Holidays (01206 577000; www.

danceholidays.com). Flamenco, salsa, Arabic dance, ceroc, tango and line dancing throughout Andalusia.

Walking and riding

Inntravel (01653 629010;

www.inntravel.co.uk). Walking holidays include a route around the coast from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic, and you can ride along the beach or in the Alpujarras. Andalusian Adventures (01453 834137; www.andalucian-adventures.co.uk). Hiking and painting in the Sierra Subbetica, Sierra de Aracena and the Alpujarras, led by Driving Over Lemons' author Chris Stewart. Rustic Blue (0034 958 763381; www.

rusticblue.com). Walking and riding with local experts in the Alpujarras.

Opera

JMB Travel (01905 830099; www.jmb-travel.co.uk). See the Tales of Hoffman in March at the Teatro de la Maestranza in Seville.

Nature

Cox & Kings (020 7873 5018; www.coxandkings.com). Gardens of Andalusia and a natural history tour based in south-west Andalusia and Donana national park. Mercury Direct (01580 715333; www.gardentours.co.uk). Visit the exotic gardens of Seville, Cordoba, Granada and Malaga.

Wine

Arblaster & Clarke (01730 893344; www. arblasterandclarke.com). Based in the seaside town of Puerto de Santa Maria, sampling wines in Jerez, Sanlucar de Barrameda, Ronda and Cordoba.

Further information

Spanish Tourist Office, 22-23 Manchester Square, London W1M 5AP (020 7486 8077; www.tourspain.es). Other websites: www.andalucia.org and www.andalucia.com.

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