Surf's up on Costa de la Luz
Suzanne Attewell

01/20/2002
Sunday Times - London
News International

It's tranquil and unspoilt, but the Costa de la Luz won't stay a secret for long, says Suzanne Attewell
Think of buying property on the southern coast of Spain and romantic notions of rambling fincas and flamenco soon fade into images of high-rise developments, dark sandy beaches, groups of sangria-sodden Brits and rows of fish-and-chips bars. But if you don't mind bracing winds and want to mix with locals from Andalucia rather than Surrey, head west of Gibraltar to discover one of the most well-preserved parts of the country.

The Costa de la Luz - "the coast of light" - comprises almost 100 miles of white sand and turquoise Atlantic, on the southernmost tip of Spain, in the province of Cadiz. Fields of bulls graze on rolling green hills, crowned by wind farms, against an intense blue sky. Ferocious waves roll on to expanses of deserted beach, while towns and villages ooze with traditional Andalucian charm.
Mary Beker, of Mary Beker Country Properties, says: "This is the heart of Spain. We've got traditional dancing Andalucian horses, authentic flamenco, bull farms and really good local sherry, hams and seafood." Beker moved here from England 27 years ago and has seen considerable changes. "Spain is much more affluent now," she says. "This area is beginning to attract a different type of British buyer who wants the real Spain and is prepared to learn Spanish and mix with the locals."

For a large part of the 20th century, Andalucia was an impoverished agricultural area. The 1960s' tourism boom reshaped its economy and the Costa de la Luz became a popular destination for Germans and Scandinavians.

After remaining virtually unknown among the British, who traditionally favoured the Costa del Sol, interest in this coast has begun to grow. Always much quieter and poorer than the Costa del Sol and Costa Blanca, this coastline has been spared the mass development seen further east. When the local authorities began to realise the destructive effect the lack of control over construction was having, they imposed strict building laws and building so near to the sea is now forbidden.

Local authorities carefully monitor new construction, much of which has to be low-rise. By the same token, this is not Britain in the sun, either. There is no real expat community to rely on and learning at least basic Spanish is essential. "It is a brave thing to do to move here. It needs courage and stamina but it is such an amazing experience," says Carole Derfield, who has lived with her family in the remote countryside above Tarifa for the past two years.

For those who take the plunge, however, there are rewards on the horizon: house prices have risen dramatically over the past year, doubling in areas such as Vejer de la Frontera. Inland towns and areas such as Chiclana, Conil and Chipiona, which are still becoming established, offer good value.

Mya V Witzleben, of Sunshine Estates, a German agency, recently sold a two-bedroom villa with pool just inland of Conil for less than Pounds 45,000. She reports that holiday rentals are in high demand throughout the area, the favourable climate making for a long rental season. "I have a good-quality two-bedroom new-build villa with pool near Chiclana for sale for about Pounds 90,000, which would rent over the summer for Pounds 2,000 per month," she says. "This coast was relatively unknown but has recently become very popular with wealthy Spanish buyers from Seville and Madrid."

A golf club has been opened near Conil and there are plans to build at least two more in the Chiclana and Conil region as the area begins to actively court a more upmarket Spanish and foreign buyer. "People buying here are more individual. They are looking for quiet and culture rather than nightclubs," says Witzleben, who notes that at the moment she has more British clients than German, interested in the diverse range of homes on offer.

Tarifa

Until the 1980s, Tarifa was a sleepy Moorish-style village with an amazing stretch of beach and views across to the Moroccan hills. Once famed only for the high suicide rate of locals driven mad by the fierce winds, those same winds now make it the best windsurfing spot in Europe. The vibe is young, sporty and chilled and the long interest in the area has caused house prices to soar. "Apartments start from about Pounds 50,000, houses just inland of the town with sea views can go for as much as Pounds 600,000," says Beker.

Vejer de la Frontera

A magical white hill village with huge Moorish influences, this town attracts an arty, creative crowd. "Vejer has always been a bit secluded and popular with Spanish celebrities, writers and creative types," says Beker. This feeling of privacy is now attracting some internationally famous people: Sadie Frost and Jude Law were seen house-hunting here earlier this year.

Zahara de los Atunes

"Zahara of the tunas" was just that until very recently - a tiny fishing village. Now its prosperity relies more on tourism and new housing. This section of the coast was one of the areas to escape the strict building regulations and the huge new hotel complexes, planned golf course and array of new-build residential developments are fast turning Zahara into a popular resort. Luxury villas overlooking the Atlantic coast and clinging to the hillside start at about Pounds 400,000; a plot of land costs about Pounds 100,000. New two-bedroom duplex apartments on a development near the beach sell for about Pounds 90,000.

Conil

Always popular with Spanish tourists, its main attraction is the beach and traditional family feel. Prices here reflect that "a two- bedroom villa in the newer area near Chiclana would cost Pounds 25,000 more to buy in Conil", according to Witzleben. "It is more exclusive. Big, luxury hotels and the proposed golf courses already attract a higher-budget clientele." Conil offers resort facilities such as watersports and nightclubs with a very traditional Spanish feel. Traditional Andalucian restaurants, tapas bars and bodegas cater as much for locals as tourists.

Chiclana, Novo Sancti Petri, Chipiona and Rota

These are the new areas of the Costa de la Luz. Again, slacker building restrictions have allowed development to take place in former fishing villages and these areas either side of Cadiz are still finding their niche. Huge hotels and more of a family resort feel mean property is cheaper in this area. But with good access to Jerez airport and bargains to be had, this could prove an interesting option for overseas homebuyers.

Derfield, 47, from Ross-on-Wye, Herefordshire, moved to the area two years ago in search of the "good life" with her partner Simon Newcombe and their son and daughter. They had their rural finca built to use as an ecologically friendly business and now grow their own vegetables. They bought their plot of land just outside Tarifa for about Pounds 85,000. They built main and guest houses with influences from India and Morocco and now run B&B and holiday accommodation in the home they affectionately call "Fawlty Fincas".

The building costs came in at about Pounds 85,000, making their total spend Pounds 170,000. "Prices around Tarifa have doubled in the past year, and land costs more now. We would probably sell this for about Pounds 250,000, but I just couldn't," says Derfield.

oMary Beker Country Properties, 0034 952 15 12 95; Carole Derfield at Fawlty Fincas, 0034 696 06 15 89; Margarita Behrendt at Sol y Mar Agency, 0034 956 45 03 89, www.mbsolymar.com; Mya Witzleben, Sunshine Estates, 0034 600 06 84 26