WHAT
ABOUT THE HOUSE ITSELF?
UPSTAIRS PASSAGE TO 2nd BEDROOM COURTYARD LOOKING TO DINING ROOM
THE actual, official, full address of the house is Calle San Juan 40, Vejer de la Frontera, Provincia de Cadiz, Espana 11150.
It sits just
outside the walls of the old city, suggesting its original inhabitants
were commoners of good village standing on the principle that the more noble one
was, the closer one lived to the castle walls and if you were really in the
local loop, you lived within them. The old walls are clearly visible from
various parts of town, including our upstairs patio.
We are in the oldest part of Vejer, the part that was mostly developed by the occupying Moors (Arabs from Islamic Morocco), who arrived in Spain in around 700-800 AD (consult history books on that one) and were finally driven out of their capital Granada, and thus Spain, in 1492. Thus the reason why Vejer and others like have the architectural feel of Arab lands. (Vejer's sister village is Chaouen/Xauen, just across the water in Morocco's Rif mountains.) Local historians say Vejer dates from 400BC through the conquering times of the Phoenecians (modern day Lebanon), Carthaginians (Libya), Romans and Vandals (as in Al-Andalus (Andalucia), or Land of the Vandals, as its known in ancient Arabic). Our house, or parts of it, are supposedly as old as 1200 years and at least 700.
YOU
will notice various Moorish, or mudejar, features, notably the arches and the well (a feature
of many Vejer houses, they ingeniously drain in and out of each other via a
subterranean labyrinthe, progressively down the mountain into the
river below and no, you shouldn't drink the water. Our well is usually about 4m
deep and has never overflowed.)
THE
modest 2-3 BR town house had substantial renovation in the early 1800's, as evidenced by
some of the roofing boards which display the years made - 1812 for one in the
main bedroom upstairs. The house is different to many others in that it is one
title, although it was once occupied by several families and what is now the
kitchen was not that long ago, around the 1950's, apparently a stable for
burros, or mules.
Interestingly,
it is more "typical" than many neighbouring houses, which have opted
for the modernised, more Spanish suburban interior look of floor tiles and faux
marble. We get quite a few complimentary remarks from inquisitive senoras
ambling by, looking in and saying "muy tipico" or remarking they knew
someone who lived there years ago. It is a local custom to leave the front door
open during the day and if senoras come wandering by, we usually allow them to
step in and take a look by saying entrar or pasar and gesturing them in.
WHAT
HAVE YOU DONE TO IT SINCE?
THE
two and a half storey house was a shell when we bought it, the renovation of the
previous owners being around 75 per cent complete.
It had
no internal doors, windows, lights, furniture, fittings, paint, plants, just solid white
walls. It was improved from the first weekend we owned it in December
1991 and steadily through 1992. We were first able to sleep in it at Easter
1992 and the first guests stayed, albeit a bit rough at the time, in May-June
1992. Progressive improvements since have brought it to the current standard and
we are toying with adding another floor, preserving the roof and thus getting
the coastal view to Morocco (much to neighbour Antonio's delight.)
WHAT
ABOUT THE INTERIORS?
COURTYARD LOOKING TO FRONT DOOR COURTYARD FROM TOP OF STAIRS
THE
furniture and fittings are a combination of imports from various places. We put the lighting in, painted
the little touches, acquired local plants, which have grown dramatically in the
near perfect climate and with much tender nurturing from neighbour Thereza,
Antonio's wife.
The old doors were acquired in local flea markets, the new ones made by a Vejer carpenter. Neighbour Antonio put in the shelves in the library and the kitchen. Fortunately, 1992 was a big year for Spain - Sevilla Expo, Barcelona Olympics, Columbus 500 and for Australian-Spanish relations - fugitive Australian tycoons and reclusive Sydney Opera House designers - that (journalist) Eric spent quite a lot of time working on the house en route to assignments elsewhere in Spain. Furniture and fittings are updated every 2-3 years, keeping it rustic in the nicest possible way yet modern and comfortable. It is also somewhat unique as it is one title; many Vejer houses share patios but ours does not.
WHAT
HAPPENS WHEN IT RAINS?
UPSTAIRS LOOKING OVER COURTYARD AND PATIO
IT'S not a design fault, the Moors meant it that way. The beauty of this house is that it is built around a courtyard and thus requires entering the weather to get from room to room and upstairs. It has the rather unusual effect of feeling outdoors when you are indoors and we like it that way as, obviously, do most Andalucians and Arabs. The real answer is that it doesn't rain that often - the area has the lowest rainfall in Europe - and when it does, the water drains perfectly, with everything tapering down into the well, which never fills up. Still, a lot of rain (rare) makes for a boring stay as one is confined to one or two rooms.
NOTE: We might add here that we don't usually rent the place with any particular commercial vigour. This site is as much for our benefit in employing a useful device to explain the ins and outs of the house and the area for those less familar with Andalucia, and Spain. Thus, you don't get picked up at the airport, or the refreshing cold towel and cocktail on arrival. There's no pool, you won't have your bed turned down at night, or made in the morning, or your bathroom cleaned daily. Neighbour Thereza is simply that and while she'll be happy to help if asked she's not our employee.
Ours is a charming, modest and quite comfortable 2-3 BR town-house, rustic in the nicest possible way in an ancient village and by and large pretty normal, which is why we like it. We say all this partly in case there are misunderstandings down the track and you were expecting the Savoy and were disappointed. And its also a legal thing, as the place is insured but not for personal injury et al as might a hotel. Nothing has ever happened but its ostensibly a private holiday house, not a business, and you are staying there because you asked to share Vejer, and we invited you too. Scores of people have done so over the years and extremely rare indeed is the person who had a bad time.